When the fickle rains become hell bent on causing destruction and Assam gets flooded, I feel helpless and compelled to think about the condition of the locals here. On the other hand, the climate of winter season is extremely pleasant. Generally, the possibility of any kind of natural calamity is almost negligible here during winter season. While writing this article, my memories are taking me to my past when I got the opportunity to roam in this beautiful Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary of Assam, which is nourished by the majestic Brahmaputra river flowing through the middle.
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary – Natural habitat of Indian Rhinos
After landing at Guwahati airport, we arranged a vehicle to reach Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary. It took us about three hours to reach there. Located in Morigaon district of Assam, this sanctuary is situated on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra River. Although the whole of Assam is considered the natural habitat of the Indian rhinoceros, Pobitora is one of the few areas where the number of rhinoceros is the highest.
On reaching Pobitora, we stayed in a comfortable rest house located in the village which was near the entrance of the sanctuary. Usually tourists take a quick tour of Pobitora sanctuary and then head towards Kaziranga National Park on the same day. But we wanted to enjoy this sanctuary to the fullest and take a detailed tour at a slow pace. Not only the sanctuary, we also wanted to enjoy this rural resort surrounded by huge trees and mustard fields while being free in the rural environment. That is why we decided to spend a few days here.
Must Read: Home of the one-horned Indian Rhinoceros – Kaziranga National Park, Assam
An overview of Pobitora National Park in Assam
If you are visiting Assam from another state, I suggest you visit Pobitara Wildlife Sanctuary not on weekends but during mid-week days. On weekends, this sanctuary is often crowded with local visitors.
By the time we reached our resort, it was already midday. We thoroughly enjoyed a thali full of different Assamese dishes and sat on two chairs on the balcony. From there, we started enjoying the beautiful views of the amazing garden in front.
Soon it was sunset time. Some cows and goats were leaving for their homes, raising dust on the unpaved road. As darkness fell, the scenery around had completely changed. A unique form of nature was emerging before us. The bright light of the sun had now been replaced by the flickering light from a distance. The crude sounds arising from all around were resonating in the ears. There was a cacophony of crickets all around. On one side, an owl sitting in a lonely barn somewhere far away was making its presence felt by shrieking. I was enjoying with full concentration an atmosphere which is rare in urban surroundings.
There was a shop at the end of the narrow lane outside our rest house. We decided to spend some time in that shop. But as soon as we came out of the rest house to go there, an employee of the rest house ran towards us in full enthusiasm. He was also making some passionate gestures. As soon as we came near him, he stopped us from going out of the rest house and warned us about the dangers that arise when we wander outside in the dark. He told us that wild buffaloes and rhinoceroses wander outside the forest at night. They reach human dwellings while looking for fresh green grass. If the rhinoceroses become aggressive, they can create a problem for us. Wild buffaloes have attacked and killed many villagers so far. That is why he did not want to let us go out unprotected. He took us to the shop in the light of a lantern and also opened the shop for us.
Must read: Nameri National Park and Tiger Reserve of Assam
walking tour in the village
The next day we got up early in the morning. We had to experience the surrounding scenery. Our effort was successful. The experience of the attractive scenery was making us emotional. Clean air, morning sun, vast fields of mustard etc. were making our walk in the rural environment unique.
We had come a long way while roaming around. Tiredness and hunger were showing their colours. Finally we turned back towards our rest house. We had refreshments after reaching there. After resting for a few hours, we left for the safari in the afternoon. Since it was not a weekend, the number of tourists was limited.
We were fortunate that our jeep driver was not only a trained driver but also had deep knowledge about the sanctuary and wildlife. As soon as I got the opportunity, I collected enough information from him. This sanctuary is located on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra River. The ecology of this sanctuary is basically made up of grasslands, wetland areas and different types of animals and birds.
Indian Rhinoceros
This sanctuary is open for tourists from sunrise to sunset. Tickets for entry can be bought upon reaching there. Prior reservation through internet is not required. But during peak tourist season, it would be advisable to reserve your place by purchasing tickets in advance.
If you want to get the experience of seeing rhinoceroses up close, you can go on a safari sitting on an elephant. While the safari jeeps remain on the road, the elephants come down from the road and reach the inner areas of the forest by trampling the tall grass. This gives the tourists an opportunity to see the rhinoceroses roaming in the inner areas up close.
We decided to go on a safari by jeep. Unlike other national parks in Assam, we were not provided with armed visitors here. So we were feeling a little scared as there have been many incidents of rhinos attacking safari jeeps here as well. In such a situation, the safari visitors fire their guns in the air, which frightens the wild animals and they run away.
Keeping all these thoughts away from our mind, we focused on the safari. Driving on rough, unpaved and narrow roads, our driver took us to the inner area of the forest.
Jeep Safari
Before this, we had extensively travelled to many national parks of India. Hence, we were fully aware of all the rules to be followed inside the forest. Following all those rules, we just kept our eyes and ears active and started looking for wild animals in the forest.
A Crested Serpant Eagle was sitting on the top of a tree. It was sitting in an active posture, its penetrating eyes fixed on some prey. Perhaps it was planning an attack. Using utmost efficiency, I stealthily picked up my camera. But it anticipated my move and quickly disappeared from my sight.
After a few moments our jeep started passing through a beautiful grassland. Further ahead this grassland narrowed and turned into a narrow road. Through this road we entered a dense forest. On the way we saw many deers hopping here and there.
There are many water sources within this sanctuary where animals and birds come to quench their thirst. Wild buffaloes have established their complete dominance over some lakes. Frightened by their aggressive and ferocious form, other animals of the forest keep a distance from them.
We were lost in the beauty of the sanctuary and in looking for wild animals. Suddenly our driver stopped the vehicle. There was some wild animal nearby. We looked around. A huge, powerful single-horned rhinoceros came and stood in front of us.
wildlife
Apart from rhinoceros, Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary is also home to many wild animals like wild boar, wild buffalo, barking deer, Indian leopard, golden jackal etc. These vast grasslands provide them food and natural habitat. We were informed that due to excessive population of rhinoceros in Pobitora National Park, some rhinoceros have been transferred to Manas National Park in Assam.
Pobitora National Park, adorned with vast grasslands, numerous water sources and tall trees, was giving pleasure to our eyes and heart. After seeing the rhinoceros, even from a distance, our dissatisfaction started increasing. Rhinos rule the roost in Pobitora National Park. Hence, the desire to see them from close was getting stronger.
Suddenly a huge rhino appeared in front of us. He was searching for something by digging the wet land with his horn. Our jeep started going near him. Since he was busy in his activities, perhaps he was not aware of our presence. We took many pictures of him. Our driver was cautious. He had stopped the vehicle a little distance away from the rhino. He was fully aware that he could attack us at any time.
Bird watching at Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary takes pride in the fact that it has the largest number of rhinoceroses roaming freely. Many species of birds are also found in this sanctuary. We were also enthralled by seeing different types of birds. From Whistling Duck to Cormorant, Green Pigeon, Parakeet, etc., we saw many birds. You name it, that bird was visible there. That too in large numbers!
As the evening approached, we reached our rest house and started resting. There was also a bird observatory in our rest house where we spent a lot of time. We took pictures of different birds. Fruits and other food items were kept on the branches of the trees to attract them. We saw three attractive Hornbills pecking at ripe bananas.
Today was our last night in Pobitora. The night was extremely cold. We packed our luggage and soon fell asleep. As soon as it was midnight, a strange and violent voice was heard from the back of the rest house. I woke up in a panic. That violent voice sent shivers down my spine. Ultimately, we were unable to determine whose voice it was. When we peered out of the window, it was pitch dark outside. Only one person was shouting loudly. After a few moments, it was realised that by making noise, he was trying to chase away some creature which had come near the premises in the darkness. That person was also trying to scare the creature by shining the light of a lantern on it.
night rhinoceros tour
The next morning we met the owner of the rest house. Smiling at our fears, he informed us that a rhinoceros had come near the rest house the previous night. Perhaps it was attracted by the tasty grass here. He told us that they are their regular visitors. That is why the resort staff is always alert, especially at night. There are also two dogs in the rest house premises who keep a constant watch. They alert the staff as soon as wild animals come near the premises.
Generally, wild buffaloes get frightened by noise and the light of candles and run away. But these measures have no effect on rhinoceroses. They keep grazing grass until they are satiated and go back voluntarily. No noise or light of any kind frightens them.
After this interesting incident, we thanked the staff of the rest house for their service and took leave from them. After this, we again set out towards Kaziranga for a new expedition.
This is a guest version composed by Koyal Barman.